GBNP Nevada.

By Dave Boyer

From a personal point of view, traveling across the desert regions in Nevada trying to get to any of its neighboring states isn’t one of my favorite pastimes. Sure, Nevada has some really great areas to explore, but driving on a highway like Nevada-6 or US-50 when you’re trying to get someplace other than Nevada can be monotonous at times. They don’t call highway 50 the loneliest road in America for nothing. A few years ago while on a trip to meet up with a friend in Colorado, I was searching for a nice spot to camp at between California and Utah that would serve as a pit stop. Something in Nevada would be perfect. A local buddy of mine suggested that Great Basin National Park might be what I was looking for.

This National Park is situated in central Nevada close to the Utah border and I must admit, compared to the surrounding region, Great Basin NP is a true oasis in the desert. It’s one of few National parks offering a diverse environmental region that includes subterranean caves, a high altitude mountain

range, and a desert zone, all of which can be seen within 30 minutes of driving past the entrance gate into the park. The location of Great Basin National Park itself has the advantage of being a great hopping point for travelers who need a spot to stay when moving from many of the other nearby National Parks such as Yosemite, Zion, Arches and even Teton NP in Wyoming. All are within an eight to ten hour drive or less from this interesting stop in the desert. Even though the park does reside in a desert type region, I was very impressed with the high altitude zone Great Basin had to offer.

Aspen, fir, and variety of pines typical surround most of the campground areas and a large variety of flora blooms in the spring and early summertime including cactus which occupy the lower high desert regions.

A desert critter trap.

Check out this sand trap. Although I never saw anything caught, I doubt I’d stick my finger in there. I’m actually not sure what species made this, maybe an Antlion. If it was, it was one big bug. The pit was a good four foot in diameter.

On the other side of the road the landscape turned from desert to meadow with a small stream and variety of flora scattered throughout the area as seen in the pictures below.

Diversity is awesome and walking 20 feet to see such a different landscape was an experience.

Autumn is also a unique time to  visit the park  because the colors are so vivid and abundant.

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No matter what time of year, this place is one nice spot to visit.

Getting there:

Park Map

The Park is located close to where US-50/NV-6 crosses from Nevada into Utah. The primary visitor center is located in Baker on route 487 but a similar center is located at the cave entrance inside the park.

Although there are a few ways to enter the parks boundaries, only one route (designated 488) enters the main portion of the park where the Lehman cave entrance and the main campgrounds are located. Besides the paved road into the park, there are a few smaller vehicle routes that run in and out of the park and some of these require a high clearance vehicle to travel on. Click on this link for directions.

Weather:

As you can expect, driving from a desert region into a high altitude alpine setting suggests that the climate can change dramatically.

On my first visit to Great Basin, I used this park as a stopping point between my home and Yellowstone NP. Mother Nature showed me just how diverse the weather can be here. As I entered the park boundaries, I found a storm had hit the lower region with heavy rain and tolerable temperatures. Things at this national park can change fast. A drive to the upper altitudes showed how the forest could be turned into a winter wonderland in a quick mode. A couple weeks later on my way back home, I found mild temps and the park delivered more spring like conditions. All the winter weather had been swept away.

Generally, the summer temperatures in the high desert hover in the 80’s and can reach much warmer temps at the lower altitudes, but because the park has campgrounds well over 8,000 feet, cooler temperatures could be sought out if desired.

The Park has seen temps as cool as -10 degrees and it’s not uncommon for the rangers to close the upper campground that resides at about 10,000 feet during spring and fall when storms hit the park. When looking at the surrounding desert region, it seems like Great Basin’s towering mountain range creates its own adverse weather causing a larger amount of rain and/or snow to fall within the park boundary.

Even in autumn, small streams flow through most of the campgrounds and although they don’t form large rivers, it seems strange to see these small streams in the middle of such a dry region so late in the year.

Springtime offers a more fresh green appearance.

At times the streams may overflow around around some of the camp sites.

Another freak weather phenomenon is the possibility of high wind gusts. These can occur at different times of the year especially during stormy weather. For the most part the wind doesn’t pose a problem, but leaving a camp exposed can be a mistake. At times heavy gusts can be a surprise to those who don’t prepare for what high winds can do. On my last trip to GBNP my camp was molested by 80MPH winds while I was out on a 4×4 run.

After returning to camp and picking up the pieces of my destroyed screen tent, a 50 foot tree crashed to the ground only 20 feet from my van. It’s not common, but it happens. That night the winds were so great that I didn’t even think of putting the top up on my van.

Supplies and amenities:

Except for the local residency of Baker Nevada which is only a few miles from the park, GBNP is basically out in the middle of nowhere. Baker has an unmanned fuel station plus a small store (as of 2010), but don’t plan to stock up for the long haul. There is a state line quick stop type store on highway 50 that has fuel as well. Ely Nevada is probably the largest community close to the park followed by Milford or Delta Utah coming in as the next closest. All have reasonably priced fuel but Ely seems to have more of a true large town atmosphere with local restaurants and the typical fast food stops. Delta does have a McDonalds but the town is fairly small. I really prefer to visit the local home brew type dinners and dives, but most of the time I’m in such a rush that I quickly roll right through the cities missing those spots to sit down and have a good meal.

Camping and Recreation:

Although I prefer to boon dock in remote locations, Great Basin NP has usually been able to give me a fair amount of privacy while camping.

I’ve always been able to find an isolated campsite from the other visitors, but I’ve never braved crossing the desert during the peak of summer when the heat is melting the rubber off my tires and vacationers are coming in by the bunches. So please don’t blame the author if you find it packed. It might be a good idea to call ahead before a visit.

Even though the Park receives a decent amount of traffic at times, being located in such a remote location has a huge advantage, and you usually should be able to find an empty site. There are six basic areas where the campgrounds are located four of which can hold large RV’s.

1. Baker @ 7,530 feet. (Includes Gray Cliff picnicking area and group camping)
2. Lower Lehman @ 7,300 feet.
3. Upper Lehman @ 7,752 feet.
4. Wheeler Peak @ 9,886 feet.
5. The walk in camps located at the southern end of the park. Shoshone camp along the Snake River area has 6 primitive camps shown on the map.
6. A couple primitive camps located at the northern section of the park along Strawberry Creek. 4×4 suggested.

The park has vaulted type heads and most campsites have a table, fire ring, plus many have a free standing BBQ.

Water is available during the warmer times of the year but make sure you bring water.   It seems that every time I’ve been there in spring or fall the spigots have been dry.

As with most National Parks, showers are not available and the park offers no lodging inside its boundaries. Showers are available at Baker but I’ve never used them. Information on them can be found at the parks web site.

Although the Park is somewhat small in size, it has a lot to offer for those visiting. By far the Leman cave tours are what makes the park unique. Link to Lehman cave images    It’s the big stone in the jewelry box. For more information visit the Parks Web Site

Driving to Wheeler Peak:

Besides the cave tour, a drive to Wheeler Peak makes for a nice day. Leaving from the main entrance road that leads to the visitor center, the spur road to Wheeler Peak takes you past the upper and lower Lehman campgrounds.

The upper sections of the park is similar to the Sierra’s and is a nice getaway from the more common Pinyon Pines that occupy Nevada’s lower forested regions. As it winds its way toward the top, the road offers views of the high desert zones that surround the park.

The drive is about 8 miles long and is fairly steep with some grades about 8%.

As the road rises in altitude, the scenery becomes more alpine like as seen in some of the images pictured in the first part of the article. Even some of the flowers are more like what are found in places like the upper Sierra’s.

Part way up is a vista point that was recently built that not only offers nice views of the lower regions, but it also has a spotting scope on site open to the public which gives you a close up look of the basin and surrounding mountains. A plaque of Stephen Mather, the first director of the national park service welcomes you to the vista point.

What a nice scope and unlike those coin operated units it was free to use.

The upper campground and surrounding area is truly beautiful in my opinion and my number one choice for camping at.

Here you’ll also find the trailhead to Wheeler Peak for those who wish to make the trek.

Whether or not you attempt to ascend the mountain, come to camp, or just go up for the drive, it’s well worth the time and effort to visit the upper region of Great Basin NP.

 The Gray Cliffs Trail:

One of the off road trails close to the main visitor center inside the park is the Gray Cliffs trail (also called Baker Creek Road). It’s located off the road into the Baker Camping area and is car friendly for the most part. There are no signs marking the route, but a good map will show the trail. The path starts off about 1.5 mi from the park entrance road. Although the run is only a class II trail and fairly short, it offers a chance to get away from asphalt and enjoy the backcountry. The trail can be taken in either direction but I preferred starting at the upper end. The path does take you out of the park but soon crosses back in. Along the route there are other trails that spur off in different directions, some of which are more difficult to travel on. The Gray Cliffs trail follows a contour line with scenic views above and below the drive. As with any off road route, check the conditions of the trail before attempting to run it and avoid it in wet weather if your vehicle is not rated for backcountry travel. The path ends at the picnicking area at Gray Cliffs. For those who wish to mountain bike the trail, it’s an easy 5.3 mi ride. Continuing back on the main road FS-590 takes you to the start of the trail then continues back to the main road into the park.

An autumn drive along the Gray Cliffs Trail:

I really enjoyed this little run even though the trail is not a technical run.

I suppose rains could cause some trenching from runoff but most of the drive was class one. Some spots supply an overlook of the lower region. Not far down the trail it crosses out of the Park.

Unlike the upper zones of the park, this area is more high desert like with Pinyon Pines thick in some spots.

Here is where a map helps. There are several roads that lead into the lower desert region. Most of these are more difficult to travel on and are narrow for large vehicles.

The main trail is another story and gives wide berth for those traveling over it.

I was pleased to see some very vivid fall colors when dropping down to the creek area.

The mountain ranges that surround the park are highly scenic and vary widely in altitude.

The weather was breezy but it never rained. The upper zone were getting snowed upon though.

Seeing this was an indication the park staff might close the road to Wheeler Peak. Something to consider if you were camped up there.

Continuing on the trail I found the fall colors vivid even though it was overcast.

Soon you’ll re-enter the National Park and as the trail leaves the stream, it climbs back into the Pinion Pine.

The trail ends up in the Grey Cliffs picnic area.

The cliffs are apparent and vertically standout.

Even the picnic grounds loop road offered fantastic fall colors.

This is a great little get-away from the rest of the park. Take the drive and enjoy it.

Astronomy:

This Park has some of the best skies in the country. It’s amazing what even a small 4” scope will show during dark skies at this park. And don’t discount what a good set of binoculars can do. At a minimum, the Milky Way is awesome. Park personnel put on public viewings when weather and skies permit.

Astronomy info

Biking:

Unfortunately, the park has not created and off road biking within the park boundaries but as mentioned, a ride on the Gray Cliffs trail can be enjoyable. There are other trails outside the park to explore.

Fishing:

The park has water flowing practically year round and because it has lakes within its boundaries, fishing is available and offers a chance to catch a unique breed of trout not common to other areas.

GBNP fishing guide

Backpacking/hiking:

There are plenty of trails to explore within the park. Wheeler Peak is the second highest mountain in Nevada at 13,063’. Check out the hiking guide and map. This park might be a standalone destination for those who wish to do some interesting packing.

GBNP hiking guide

Some additional pictures inside Great Basin NP:

Summary:

There is definitely beauty in this park. Great Basin offers a variety of eco systems wrapped up into one small package. Centrally located to other National Parks, Great Basin NP is a welcome stop along the way and beats staying in any hotel. The park has nice camping spots and most are fairly private compared to what other National Parks have to offer. The only drawback is a lack of boon docking spots but that is to be expected.  On the other hand, not too many National Parks offer a vast subterranean underworld to explore so if you’re looking for something different take a look at Great Basin. It’s well worth a visit on its own.

See ya on the trail.

By Dave Boyer

(Please click on smaller images to enlarge)

On July 24^th, I decided to meet up with Sportsmobile Forum member Steve (SteveInLA) and his wife Carmen at Yosemite Creek campground. He said they would be up there around mid day and hoped I could camp with them for a night.

Work had their claws in me so the best I could do was a quick visit to the park.

I’m not really into cram packed campgrounds but for a quick visit they’re fine. I figured a nice easy off road drive on the way up would add to the day. I got a hold of my buddy Don from Merced to tag along and headed toward Merced to pick him up. The weather was reasonably warm but not scorching hot like it usually is in July. After a local breakfast, we headed up the hill. The plan was to do a 4×4 run on the way up and we had a couple of choices that would fit into our day. Bull Creek and The Old Coulterville Trail are both excellent runs, but Bull Creek is a longer haul, so the Coulterville route got the vote. Besides, we had planned to hit Tuolumne Meadows before the meet and greet and it would take an extra hour or so to reach the upper high country. For more details about either of these runs, you’ll find them on this site under Bull Creek Road and The Old Coulterville Trail.

After pulling into Coulterville, we peeled off highway 132 and started up Dogtown Rd.

This part of the trail is built for any passenger car.

Further up the road it turns to dirt. I got stuck behind a Jeep and had to pull over until his dust cleared.

It does get dusty on this route and this is mild compared to what’s further up the trail.

The road climbs a steep grade for a few miles and offers a few nice vista point to look over the area.

After passing the residential area, the trail degrades and there are a couple of water crossings, neither of which were over 6” deep.

A couple months back it was a different story when the creeks were swollen and a good 3 feet deep.

After Dogtown we turned on The Old Coulterville Trail.

I usually take this route home when visiting Yosemite because it doesn’t add that much time to get back to the barn.

The views were really nice and the road was a pleasant drive.

After a few miles in we noticed the trail was starting to narrow. You can see ruts made during wet weather which indicates this might not be a great drive after a storm passes through.

Some of the areas were dense and thickly forested.

After a while we started seeing a lot of trees down and whoever cleared the road didn’t figure a vehicle as large as my van would be using the trail.

This easy route was kickin my paint jobs ass! Talk about pin stripping, stuff was poking and sticking out from all angles and these were the good spots. All I hoped was it would clear further up the road.

Then we found this!

I made a couple of runs at it but the road was not gonna yield.

OK, make my day… just turn around and go back past all of the paint scraping vegetation. Actually it’s all part of the adventure and I’m not complaining, but I sure was glad I wasn’t pulling my 4×4 trailer. Like I said in my original post on the Coulterville Trail, it’s best to call ahead and ask the condition of the route you’re planning to take.

Now we had to take the lousy highway. Moore Creek Road (also called Buck Meadows Road) was a short cut that was loaded with washboard but still better than asphalt. Even with taking the shortcut the washout on the Coulterville Road put us a few hours behind.

After the traffic jam, we headed up Tioga Pass. I figured Steve had probably reached Yosemite Creek CG by now so we didn’t make too many stops, but my plans to reach Tuolumne Meadows would have to take the back seat. The turn off to the campground isn’t too far up the pass and is just past White Wolf HSC. If you’ve never driven into Yosemite Creek CG you should take the time to cruise this single lane 5+ mile paved road. The trip down the road offers a few nice vista points.

After arriving at the campground, nothing big and red stood out. How can you hide a Sportsmobile, especially a red one? It was obvious Steve and Carmen were not there yet. Had they come and gone? The lower half of the campground was closed off for repair and the rest of it was packed. We found a couple spots but wondered if Steve had bugged out looking for greener pastures. I asked a couple from the park staff “you seen anything like this only red”…nope. On the way out we saw something big blocking the path…they had made it. Well at least something we had planned to do worked out. I told them we would follow them down to the camp to find a spot as sites were few and far between.

Well actually not far between, hell, they’re jam packed next to one another! We exchanged greeting and began the search. Don and I had found one camp that was better than others and took Steve to see if he wanted it…yep. We spent an hour or so talking about Sportsmobiles, tires, and winches among a host of other things. I had a good time and as always, meeting other SMB owners is a memorable event.

I sure wish we could have stayed longer but we had a good 2 hour drive ahead of us.

Well, it had been a good day and although I didn’t make it up to Yosemite’s high country, the meeting of new friends is what really made the trip. I hope to meet up with Steve and Carmen again soon. Maybe a trip down south when the weather cool in early winter.

I was surprised what this years weather did to the Coulterville route. I plan to find out if the forest service is even going to do a repair to the trail but I’ll bet they’ll throw out the old excuse that they’re out of funding.

After I made it home, the next day I took a look at the van.

You might have to zoom up on the pictures to see the Sierra pin striping. As for me, I’ll just keep them minimized

Maybe see ya out on the trail.

Dave.

The 4,700 Foot Road

Location: Western Sierra Nevada Mountain range east of Sonora Ca.

Season open: Open all year, weather permitting.

Nearby Facilities & Camping: Dispersed camping at the beginning and end of the trail.

(Please click on smaller images to enlarge them)

Donnell Reservoir is located on the middle fork of the Stanislaus River just off Ca Highway 108 (Sonora Pass) on the western slope of the Sierra Nevada’s. The dam sits in a very narrow portion of the river canyon and has a single access road (5N09X) sometimes called the 4,700’ road.

This seven mile forest service road is suitable for most SUV’s or 2WD vehicles that have reasonable ground clearance. The route is well maintained but is very rough and rocky in spots. Because of the sharp rocky road base, a good set of tires are recommended when traveling this trail. The road is narrow and in spots as it winds its way along the canyons 4,700 foot contour line which give it its name. Although much of the route is a shelf road, the bottom of the canyon and river can only be glimpsed from a couple of spots along the way, but the road passes through areas that are quite scenic, especially in the late spring when the streams are flowing from the snow melt. The flower bloom can be striking on a good year.

The road also provides operations and maintenance  personnel access to the Dam and reservoir behind it so it’s possible to see heavy equipment on the drive. Both the river below the dam and the lake offer good fishing, but the narrow canyon walls limits foot access along the shoreline of the lake. It’s common to see anglers pack in boats to fish the reservoir.

There are a couple of camps located at the end of the road to boon dock at but the space is limited and if occupied you’ll have to return to the first few miles of the drive where the landside is more open to camping.

In July of 2011, I  wanted to do a weekend trip up Sonora Pass (Ca 108) and asked a buddy at work if he wanted to join in.  Steve grabbed his gear and a bottle of Crown Royal and was ready to go. I was already armed with my standard imported Rum and expected a good night around a fire. We camped at a secluded spot up on the pass that I visit on a regular basis. The night was good and in the morning it did appear that we did indeed have a hell of a time at the fire.

Ah, the morning and espresso. With hair of the dog in hand, we looked over the map showing the 4,700’ trail. It had been years since I had been into that area and I was looking forward to revisiting the area.

The entrance into this region is the road that leads to Beardsley Reservoir.

This part of the road is paved all the way to the Beardsley today, but the spur (5N95) that leads to Donnell is a well maintained forest service road.

Rather than give detailed instructions on how to reach the 4,700’ road, it’s best to be armed with a good forest service road map and trace out the path from the reservoir itself as there are a couple trails throughout the area you’ll need to take to get there and some aren’t marked. A Turn on 5N09X continues through similar surroundings.

As mentioned, several streams cross this trail and early springtime is a good time to see the water in action.

After driving through the forest area, 5N09X finally reaches the 4,700’ contour line which the road follows to the reservoir. Here you will cross the pinstock that feeds the  Donnell powerhouse located just above Beardsley Reservoir.

Although some of the spots were a little dry such as the picture above, because we had an unusually wet year, other areas were quite green and looked more like a rain forest.

The road continues along the shelf but views of the river down in the canyon are rare. Here is one spot along the route that offers a glimpse of the Stanislaus River.

We continued on, stopping to check out any waterfalls that were flowing across or in culverts under the road.

Cascade and Mill Creeks are a couple of the larger streams that flow down into the canyon.

The other side of the canyon also had its streams as seen in the picture below.

Most every small stream had some water in it.

Mill Creek doesn’t have a bridge but the falls are still impressive when the flows are heavy.

Probably one of the most interesting spots along the way is a semi vertical set of granite walls.

It’s another spot where you can see the river. Steve was taking a look over the edge.

From this point on the road turns rough and although I didn’t need four wheel drive, I was glad my tires were in good shape.

It would be an interesting drive during a heavy down pour…the water looks like it runs right down the road in spots.

The last part of the shelf road if level and also has its scenic moments.

The final section of the road has a somewhat steep switchback that didn’t pose a problem for my van. Finally we reached the dam.

The access road to the top of the dam is gated off so you must park outside and walk in.

The walk to the dam is a fairly level upward grade that’s about 1/4 to 1/2 mile long. Unfortunately we were pushed for time and didn’t make the trek but we did have time to look over the camps located at the end of the road.

Of the four or so spots to camp here, only two looked worthy of a stay. Both the camp shown here above and below are fairly nice spots.

The campsites are free but there are no facilities. I wouldn’t count on them being open either if you’re coming in on a Friday or Saturday. At least the drive is a short one, so if they’re taken you can probably find something towards the start of the trail.

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Overall I really enjoyed this run. For a novice off roader, this is a good safe road to explore provided the weather is sound. It’s definitely best to run it in spring when the plants are green and the weather is cool. The gem of the road has to be the fishing which is said to be excellent. There are plenty of other off road trails to explore in the area and several places to boon dock at. For those who prefer typical forest service campgrounds with minor facilities, Sonora Pass has several, and in all but the most busiest times of the year, finding a site shouldn’t be a problem. More information on Sonora Pass can be found in previous posts on this site.

For forest service information contact the Summit Ranger District (209) 965-3434

Maybe I’ll see ya on the trail.

Thanks for following AutoRamblings Sportsmobile 4×4 Adventures

Please click on smaller images to enlarge them.

A visit to a National Park can be an adventure in life that will almost always puts a smile on the face of any traveler. These extraordinary spots located throughout the United States have been made into a national park for some reason, usually because of some unique twist of Mother Nature or a man made wonder of some type. so the chances of seeing something spectacular is highly probable for the visitor. Whether a human marvel or a product of Earths ongoing natural changes, national parks usually pack in the masses.   Unfortunately being around large groups can be less than pleasant at times for some of us. I know I’m that way. Ah…the typical tourist; you got to love them because at one time or another you’re one yourself. I’ve been to Yosemite National Park so often over my lifetime that I usually steer clear of the valley floor due to the overcrowding and traffic. Obviously I wouldn’t suggest avoiding Yosemite, or any other national park for that matter because of “zoo effect”. Seeing something spectacular for the first time often negates the hoards of sightseers bumping into you when you’re trying to get that perfect photograph. But there are times when it’s worth a visit even if it’s crowded. Maybe it’s a seasonal change such as when the trees turn color in fall, a desert flower bloom, or when the first snowfall arrives. With Yosemite it’s easy to figure that the prime time to visit the park is when the waterfalls are at their peak. Even though the major waterfalls are impressive throughout spring and early summer, sometimes the Park’s lesser falls put on a good show.

2011  has had a peculiar spring season as far as the weather has been concerned. The climatologists called for an extremely dry year, but again, the “weathermen” were wrong. Not that I’m complaining, we need all the wet weather we can get and boy did it hit hard this year. It was nice to see green hills late into April. The snow pack is huge and heavy snow in April at 2000 feet and May at the 3000 foot level is definitely not the norm, but it keeps the lakes full. The rivers that were close to flood stage earlier have dropped down to reasonable levels but we’re still waiting for the spring runoff. It might be big one if the hot weather hits quick. I learned along time ago not to attempt to outguess the weather. Mother Nature wins a fair amount of the time, and the words “best guess” seems to prevail often. Our weather has varied so much since we started taking accurate records, that it seems we just don’t have the knowledge built up to make long term predictions yet. This year is a prime example. Where is the farmer’s almanac?

During April and May I made a few trips up into the Sierra’s. As of mid-May most of the areas above the 4000 foot level were still closed off. The snow pack in some locations was 198% of normal, second highest since records have been kept. At the opposite end of the spectrum, areas in the lower foothills were beginning to warm to levels where some of the grasses started turning brown.

I was lucky to hit Yosemite Valley after a series of large storms systems had passed through. The time I had to visit the valley was short so I wasn’t able to use a tripod for those better than average pictures but some came out OK. For the professional photographer it would have been a fortunate time to visit the valley. In all the times I’ve been to Yosemite, conditions like this are kind of rare. Many of the higher peaks were clouded over and I never did see Half Dome reveal itself on either of the trips, but the waterfalls were abundant. They say a picture is worth a thousand words but nothing beats being there. Toward the end of May the snow level lowered to below 3000 feet where, on the second outing, I awoke to over six inches of snow. Once again Yosemite was hit with cold temperatures and the snow level was well below Hetch Hetchy Reservoir, something that is way out of the norm for this time of year. Both trips were impressive and each had something different to offer, making the visits memorable and something I’ll never forget.

Obviously, Yosemite is best known for its rock formations. Some of these monoliths, such as El Capitan shown above are big crowd pleasers, but many of Yosemite’s granite outcroppings sit in the shadows with less notoriety waiting to be glimpsed by onlookers exploring the wonders of the valley. Within the confines of the valley, every rock wall has something to offer.

Some of the best views are historic vista points that have become prime tourist stops.

It’s a toss up if you ask someone what comes to mind when you say “Yosemite”, but I’m sure many would say “waterfalls”. Falls like Bridalveil shown above and Upper Yosemite Falls pictured below are breathtaking to say the least.

Generally it’s these heavyweights that get all the attention and seeing them in person is a unique experience especially when the water is running fast and hard. Just imagine what the first explorers thought when they saw these falls.

Horsetail and Ribbon falls take a back seat to Yosemite and Bridalveil. The valleys other two famous falls, Nevada and Vernal are only visible by trail or from Glacier Point. Some other large falls are located in the Hetch Hetchy area as well. The backcountry also has some impressive waterworks.

But the sheer vertical nature of the cliffs offers the perfect opportunity for heavy runoff to form smaller waterfalls. Most the pictures below were taken off the major roadways while we took a quick drive through the valley.

Even the lower portion of the valley and areas closer to the edge of the parks boundary had falls, some of which I’ve never noticed.

On the way back to camp we stopped for a few shots along highway 140. This highway is actually quite scenic during late winter and early springtime.

When the Poison Oak starts to bloom you know the dry season isn’t too far off.

Still, this This year has had so much water that the plants were still green. It won’t be long before all of this area is dry especially at the lower altitudes. 

Normally the camping below Yosemite in May is too hot along the Merced River for a comfortable stay, but it was great this year. Everything stayed green and the flora was very colorful.

On the second trip into Yosemite valley, the snow level was much lower and although there were fewer falls, the snow was a beautiful sight in itself.

I almost always prefer to take the scenic way back home. The lower foothill usually produce a heavy California Poppy bloom between late March and through May but this year the poppy barely showed itself.

Fortunately other flowers really put on a show and even this late in the year I was able to find an abundance of color.

I always enjoy an extended spring season. Weather like this only happens a couple of times each decade and It’s obvious that with the heavier snow pack situated in the high country this year that Yosemite’s classic waterfalls will be active throughout most of the mid and early summer. People visiting the valley in July will see the larger falls putting on a good display, but a visit to Yosemite Valley during a heavy spring rain storm has its own merit and seeing these lesser falls in action is truly a unique experience.

Thanks for reading Sportsmobile 4×4 adventures.

The Wolf Creek Trail located just east of the Sonora Pass crest (Ca highway 108) is a class I off road vehicle route that offers scenic views of the Sierra Nevada’s close to the 108 corridor. Situated basically north of the Leavitt Lake Jeep route, this path is a much smoother route than most 4×4 trails and is generally 2WD friendly in good weather. It meanders through light to medium forested areas and high altitude shrub brush below the eastern slope of Sonora Peak and White Mountain which rest at the crown of the Sierra Nevada Range. The 4×4 road finally ends up passing through the Marine Corps Mountain Warfare Training Center located at Pickel Meadow. The trail supplies excellent views of the surrounding mountains and is scenic alternate to highway 108.

The Vehicle Trail:

(Click on any image to enlarge)

The start of the drive is a bit difficult to find and easy to pass by mainly due in the lack of any signs or placards along the highway to identifying the path.

Access to the route is slightly less than two miles east of the Sonora Pass Marker at a small flat along the highway that is often used as a camping spot. It’s common to see vehicles or horse trailers parked at the trailhead as well. There is a sign that states you are entering a Marine Training area and to be cautious of personnel using the area. In other words, don’t blatantly fire weapons in the area.

Another sign is contact information specifically for the Marine’s who enter the White Peak Mountain area. The sign also shows the level of fire threat and even though much of this zone  features  barren ground with little to burn, the rangers will ticket you if you ignore the rules. Several years back during summer I had a couple of rangers on quads made me aware of this and although they were both quite young, the one ranger told me “dude if you start a fire I’ll have to ticket you man”. I quickly responded with “bummer man, what about my Q dude? It’s propane”. The other guy said “like if you can just turn it off with a knob man, it’s cool”. At least we could BBQ on that trip. Charcoals were not allowed at that level of fire restriction so we were good to go with propane, but there are times when even stoves or propane fired devices are not allowed so check before entering the area.

As mentioned, the path is suitable for 2WD travel when dry provided your tires are in adequate shape and the road has been graded. There are portions where the grade is steep and low range is appreciated but definitely not required.

From the upper trailhead the road starts off as a mild climb through lightly forested land. For the most part the terrain never passes through any heavy forest areas such as what’s located on the western slope, but sections or “islands” of thicker trees are abundant throughout the region.

A possibility exists where drivers may have to pass through ruts. These segments of the trail can pose problems with vehicles that sit low to the ground.

Rain is also something to be concerned about and although most of the route is somewhat sandy, there are spots that may become sloppy.

These sections can become slick requiring four wheel drive. During early summer, snow will likely be present along the path and at times may block the road in areas shaded from sunlight. During early summer, the road is usually dry plus it’s the most spectacular time to visit when the alpine flora is in its full glory and the grasses are green. But due to the trails high altitude setting, it’s a great run throughout the late summer and even fall before the highways closes for the season.

The route passes several Marine Corp bunkers that are used for training. I knocked but nobody was home.

The trail follows a rim route that give exceptional views of the surrounding mountain range peaks.

The road also crosses a few small creeks, the largest being Wolf Creek and its one lane bridge.

I don’t think the stream is much for fishing but the lake it feeds from might be worth looking into.

A section of the forest has burned in the past but even that portion of the road is interesting and has its own merit.

During autumn, the fall colors add to the scenery as shown in all these shots, and the recent snow also was a welcomed event from a photographic point of view.

On the way down, the trail offers views of the marine base situated below. The trail becomes wider and smoother as you drop in altitude.

As you travel down the road there are a couple of smaller trails more suited for actual 4×4 travel but the main road is easy to follow for the most part.

There is one loop that extends the adventure and ends up coming into the Marine base as well but the shortest route is the better maintained road. Finally you’ll reach the base and highway 108.

It is a bit strange driving out of the base. I now see the kiosk appears to be manned by private security where years ago it was military personal on guard as you drove through.

Fuel, Food, and Supplies:

Please see the previous Leavitt Lake post for information.

Backpacking and Day Hikes:

Trailheads are located about half way into the 4×4 road that allows walking access into Silver Creek Meadows and Wolf Creek Lake. The hiking trail to Wolf Creek Lake ties into the Pacific Crest Trail while the Silver Creek packing trail follows the crest of the Sierra Nevada Range. I’m sure there are several other trails to explore in the area. This route would also be a great mountain bike trail or “on road” motorcycle trail bike run.

Camping:

There’s plenty of good cover for those wishing to boon dock along the trail but much of the route passes over high altitude sage brush that is more abundant to the area. Finding a secluded camping spot is up to the adventurer. Fortunately, many spots along the way offer travelers  nice places to boon dock away from other individuals who might occupy the area. As a note, some of the area is restricted and a permit may be required for overnight camping, so it’s a good idea to contact the Bridgeport Ranger District (760)-932-7070 or write the District Ranger @ HC 62 box 1000 Bridgeport, Ca. 93517.

Be aware that it’s not uncommon for the upper section of Sonora Pass to close due to snow during September/October for a brief time before Cal-Trans makes the final winter closure leaving the Marine base and highway 395 the only way out. Depending on the storm and/or the amount of snow that drops, Cal-Trans usually opens the pass within a day or so, but I’ve seen vehicles trapped on the wrong side of a locked gate while the owners wait for someone to return and let them out. It is advisable to tell a friend or family member anytime you plan to go off road, and make sure to get a (forest service) map of the area so you know where you’re going. Don’t rely on standard GPS devices as maps. These are always good safety rules for any off road adventure. Please stay on the trails and pack out what you bring in and just as important, enjoy the ride.

Summary:

Sonora Pass happens to be the second highest route over the California Sierra Nevada Range and as mentioned in the Leavitt Lake article, the pass ranks high as a scenic route over the Sierra’s. The Wolf Creek Trail is a great drive for those who want to see the backcountry and don’t have heavy off roading experience plus it gives travelers a better scenic advantage over the highway. Although I rate this as a simple class I trail, weather conditions can change the rating quickly. Silver Creek Meadow and Wolf Creek Lake are great hikes that offer access to some of California’s most scenic alpine settings.

See ya on the trail.

Dave.