<\/strong><\/p>\n By Dave Boyer<\/font><\/strong><\/p>\n Death Valley Christmas \/ New Year?s run.<\/strong><\/p>\n Death Valley is a great park to visit with an off road vehicle. Unlike many of the National Parks located in the US, Death Valley is covered with vehicle trails that range from easy to expert class making it well suited for a large van such as a Sportsmobile. If you factor in the size of this place, you?ll find Death Valley is a wonderful place to explore with a 4×4.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Last year I made a trip to Death Valley (see the 2006 posting) with a good friend and SMB forum member Don Dunbar of Merced Ca. That trip just happened to be our first visit to the Death Valley and surrounding area. The trip was fantastic but the park is so big we really only scratched the surface. During that week the weather wasn?t exactly on our side, and forced us to deal with constant high winds that enveloped the valley. I?d never seen a sand storm of that magnitude and a week of being sand blasted grew old in a hurry. But other than the constant high winds, it was a very rewarding adventure. Finally the weather calmed down and there was one day of relief. The trip ended with a great night in Echo Canyon. <\/p>\n Well I contacted my buddy Don to set up a similar trip to bring in the 2008 New Year. I was stoked.<\/p>\n Even though this run had no fixed set of plans, we did have a few ideas. The trip ended up in this order:<\/p>\n 1. Red Rock SRA (California)<\/strong><\/p>\n 2. Echo Canyon. (Base camp during our stay).<\/strong><\/p>\n 3. Twenty Mule Team Canyon Road.<\/strong><\/p>\n 4. Titus Canyon.<\/strong><\/p>\n 5. Hole In The Wall Canyon.<\/strong><\/p>\n 6. Trail Canyon.<\/strong><\/p>\n 7. Cottonwood Canyon.<\/strong><\/p>\n 8. Johnson Canyon.<\/strong><\/p>\n 9. Marble Canyon.<\/strong><\/p>\n 10. Upper Echo Canyon.<\/strong><\/p>\n _______________________________________________________________________<\/strong><\/p>\n We left out of central California just after Christmas 2007 planning to spend 10 or 11 days in the Death Valley area. The plan was to hit a standard campground either somewhere around Lake Isabella or around highway 58. Red Rock State Park on the other side of the Sierra?s got the vote and would be the first stop. During the first trip, Red Rock seemed like a good stop to give us a quicker path to DV. On the bad side it was further than where we had planned to camp and the California Highway Patrol didn?t really like my enthusiasm toward trying to get there in record time. I made a big mistake leaving my radar detector at home and flew past a cruiser doing 72 in a 55 zone. Of course my excuse failed miserable and having a CDL made things worse. Crap, next stop Red Rock SRA @ 55 MPH. <\/p>\n Red Rock was basically void of the masses as it usually is at this time of year which made it a good spot for a quick stop.<\/p>\n The wind was somewhat calm but it was still very cool. I got some nice snap shots before the sun set.<\/p>\n Last year, Don?s tent (a cheap Coleman tent) was ripped up by the high winds. He was now sporting a brand new Cabelas dome tent that could survive most any weather condition. Don bought a fantastic tent, but it?s difficult to set up. He plans to purchase a small high quality tent that can be set up faster while on the move. <\/p>\n Don?s tent has the ability to set up the fly first and then set up the tent itself. This works great in wet weather. With camp set, preparations were made for the night.<\/p>\n We decided to bypass the fire and enjoy the heat of the Sportsmobile where beers flowed like water. I think the California Hi-way Patrol helped out in my consumption of alcohol this night. Thank you officer. OK it was my fault, but I do have problems with a little trailer supposedly having the same characteristics as a full blown semi. Welcome to the California. After a good sleep at Red Rock we awoke to coffee and a shot of a unique vehicle.<\/p>\n I wonder what the mileage is with something like this.<\/p>\n I started the espresso to clear my head of the cobwebs caused by the California Highway Patrol?Ok I?m still venting.<\/p>\n One thing we found out was how bad the water is at Red Rock. Don?t drink it! After a quick breakfast I shot some more pictures. <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n This State Park is somewhat trashy but the unique rock formations are very interesting. I even saw an animal I have never seen before pop its head out of a hole.<\/p>\n This campground actually seems more like typical California desert with several plants that are hard to find in DV.<\/p>\n We left toward DV via Ridgecrest where I picked up a radar detector before we were off toward Stovepipe Wells. No more radar tickets if I could help it. I had never been through the Panamint Valley, so it was new territory for me. <\/p>\n We passed through the small community of Trona that had diesel fuel at a small convenience store. <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n We also saw the small ghost town of Ballarat<\/a> in the distance where the road straightened and the terrain flattened out, but most of the drive through the valley was uneventful or at least I thought it would be.<\/p>\n Looking toward Ballarat and the Panamint Range.<\/p>\n Just after the Ballarat turn off, I decided to push the speed a bit and took it to just over 60mph. Then the detector went off. Laser, yikes! As I slammed on the brakes I could see nothing in either direction for miles. I wondered what the range of the detector was or if I had a defective unit. All of a sudden a jet fighter flew over about 100 feet off the ground. It was like a bomb went off! The radar detector freaked me out enough but the noise of that jet spun me a bit. SOB used me as a target. Later I found out the Panamint Valley is a military flight training area. Somewhat rattled, we drove on to Stovepipe Wells.<\/p>\n The trek over the Panamint Range took longer than I thought but I was able to see some color in the hills typical of many areas in DV<\/p>\n Along Highway 190.<\/p>\n Pulling into the Stove Pipe Wells we looked for diesel. Where? I sure couldn?t find it but didn?t spend too much time searching as it was getting late on us and I had plenty. We left out for Furnace Creek stopping along the way to check out the sand dunes and the Devils Corn Field, most of which looked the same as last year. <\/p>\n We stopped at Furnace Creek for fuel and ice before heading toward our destination. <\/p>\n While picking up our park registration at the visitor center, another SMB pulled in behind me.<\/p>\n This would end be total of 3 SMB?s were seen on the trip; two at Furnace Creek and one in Marble Canyon but I never talked to any of the owners. Leaving out of the store and visitor center the drive went quick to reach Echo Canyon. The trail in was the same as the year before, partially needing four wheel drive but nothing outrageous. We got our old spot back at Echo Canyon and set up camp. Although there are several spots to camp at in Echo, some are better than others and I had my fingers crossed all the way in. That night we had a great time unwinding from the long drive while sitting around a fire and having a good barbeque. <\/p>\n We discussed our plans for the week and what we were going to do the next day. By the end of the night we had a destination picked and decided to crash out.<\/p>\n The next day with a little espresso and some hair of the dog, we trashed our pre-made plans. Because Don?s tent took so long to set up, the idea that Echo would be a good base camp to work out of while exploring the lower section of DV gained beaucoup merit. Also prioritization had to be factored in not knowing how the weather was going to treat us. First stop would be Titus Canyon. This was one we missed last year due to trail closures because of poor weather and being the Rangers said it was now open, Titus became the #1 objective. Also the Twenty Mule Team Canyon Road had eluded us due to time restraints so it fell in place as a must see as well. This short one way road is easily passable during good weather with any car and should not be passed by. It?s a drive that offers exceptional scenery that is different than anything else I?ve seen in DV. The best time to visit this area would be towards dusk but as close as it was to Echo, it made sense to make it our first run of the day.<\/p>\n A trip down 20 Mule Team Canyon.<\/strong><\/p>\n Despite the name, the 20 Mule Team Canyon road was never used by the 20 Mule Team freight haulers but was used by smaller freighters of the era. Today a drive on this road really makes you feel like you?ve been thrown back in time. The Canyon road should not be confused with other 20 Mule Team trails that ran out of the Eagle Borax Works located in the center of Death Valley and those west of the Panamint Range. <\/p>\n After seeing the Twenty Mule Team Canyon Trail we headed out but it put us a little behind schedule. The plan was to head out of the park via Death Valley Junction, through Lathrop Wells to the town of Beatty Nevada. Actually the route through Furnace Creek is shorter, but a steady climb toward Beatty might cost more in fuel due to the uphill climb. Between Lathrop Wells and Beatty is a small trail to a spot called Big Dunes. From the highway the sand dunes looked interesting but we didn?t have the time to explore. Also the ghost town of Rhyolite Nevada located close to the entrance to Titus Canyon is something I wanted to see. There was no time to explore either of these places?maybe another year. <\/p>\n So we were off on our journey to Titus. The highway drive wasn?t real fun. Like everything in Death Valley, long drives seem to be common. Generally I prefer to camp close by an area I want to explore but the Echo camp is a great spot to camp and I felt the trailer would be more secure there than other spots in Death valley. Half way to Beatty out in the middle of nowhere we saw this place.<\/p>\n What were they thinking? The beer sign was obviously too small!<\/p>\n Beatty was where we could get Nevada priced fuel and grab something to eat. I wanted a little bucket for the fire pits ashes and possibly there was a place that had a container or metal bucket. There is a guy that has all kinds of great army surplus stuff but he was not open, so we fueled up and prepared to leave town. Thinking the guy was at lunch, we hit a one horse casino, won 30 bucks cashed out. Being the surplus guy was still gone to lunch we left town but fifteen minutes inside that casino left us smelling like an ash tray. Lovely! From Beatty the 1-way trail through Titus Canyon was not far down the highway. <\/p>\n A trip down Titus Canyon.<\/b><\/p>\n Titus<\/i><\/b> Canyon<\/i><\/b> is probably the most unique tourist drive visitors can take within the parks boundary. I think most two wheel drive vehicles with the correct tires can do this drive but I would check with the rangers first. Poor weather can turn this road into a tougher run. During our drive the trail was very good and a car could have made it. If you want to be surprised of the uniqueness of this wonderful drive, skip to the next section. But pictures can?t really compare to the real McCoy, so if you want a sneak peek of Titus, continue on. <\/i><\/b><\/p>\n From Beatty we traveled down Nevada state route 374 to the Rhyolite City turnoff and continued on the dirt lane until the sign to Titus Canyon appeared. The road into the canyon starts off through flat terrain then steadily climbs up toward Red Pass.<\/p>\n The bad thing about this trip is you will probably be tailgated by a number of vehicles trying to haul ass on this trail. I have never seen so many SUV?s on a trail anywhere. Prepare to pull over several times along this route to let people by. This was my big gripe while driving this route. It?s best to avoid weekends if feasible. The beginning of the climb out of the desert toward the upper mountain range is mostly wide open rolling hills.<\/p>\n As the mountains grow higher you begin to see more color and steeper cliffs. <\/p>\n The canyon in the background (we think) is called Titanothere Canyon where fossil remains of prehistoric creatures were found dating over 30 million years old. This is looking back from Red Pass.<\/p>\n The trek toward the pass is somewhat spectacular but it soon becomes apparent why Titus Canyon is rated as one of the best drives through the park. <\/p>\n At the top of Red Pass, which is at 5,250 feet, there is a spot that is definitely worth pulling over. It?s a must to get out and take a look around.<\/p>\n It is evident why this is called Red Pass.<\/p>\n The trail winds down toward the canyon through the Grapevine Range along a smooth shelf road that would be bad news in rainy conditions for two or four wheel drive vehicles. <\/p>\n The red clay looks like it would be rather slippery in wet conditions. The amount of green colors in the rock is vivid and the contrast is striking. <\/p>\n One thing we noticed was the green color of the rock in places. This seemed much more evident while contrasted by the red clay.<\/p>\n The trail soon brings you to an old mining area called Leadfield which is considered an old ghost town but there isn?t much left to see now. Notice how the area looks turquoise in color. This is how it truly looks in winter during partial overcast late in the day. <\/p>\n After some meandering throughout the more open area, the trail begins to narrow which makes Titus what it is. <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n We found this section to be one of the smoothest roads on our visit, no washboard within the canyon itself, and a very well packed trail probably due to the heavy traffic. Of course every trail can change day to day or week to week at Death Valley. <\/p>\n The rock seemed to be frosted over but it was in the 60?s. <\/p>\n There was also a diggings in the mountain but we didn?t have time to investigate it.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n Odd rock formations and colors were worth getting out for a closer look.<\/p>\n Titus is one of the coolest drives in the park. The canyon is fairly wide at this point with tall vertical walls but would soon narrow. <\/p>\n We had a guy on are butt and let him pass.<\/p>\n This is a major problem with this run. Nobody drives at the same pace, so pulling over like I did here to snap a photograph is almost impossible. It was lucky that nobody showed up as I backed back to where Don shot this picture from.<\/p>\n There are some tight curves but even a large vehicle like a Unimog could negotiate this path. Closer to the end of the trail might be questionable.<\/p>\n Sections of the canyon become wider and then narrow down a bit. The vertical walls are a site to see and better than Echo Canyon, but unlike Echo it?s accessible by most any vehicle when the road is in this condition. It gets a lot of traffic but wouldn?t you love to camp in this canyon? It?s probably one of the reasons why none is allowed.<\/p>\n Thankfully nobody was behind us, and we were able to get out and explore a bit. The walls made your voice echo like being in a cave. It would neck down even more up ahead.<\/p>\n This is a spot that was somewhat narrow. We got out and could hear folks walking around exploring the canyon. Voices travel quite some distance here. This is the end of the canyon. I still think a larger rig could get through this provided it?s not a massive vehicle. Long wheel base vehicles are not allowed so a typical RV should avoid this route. The rock formations here are something else. This is where it?s best that nobody is coming down the trail behind you so you can get out and explore but it might be better to stop at the mouth and just walk back up. <\/p>\n The trail breaks out on to a large alluvial fan. From here the road is 2-way and leads to the highway. For times when the road is closed due to poor weather, many people drive up the 2-way road to the parking area and walk up the canyon to check it out. Like voices, vehicles can be heard coming at you, so it?s pretty safe to walk the canyon. <\/p>\n You can barely see a parked vehicle and one coming out of the canyon area. I strongly suggest that people who don?t have the time to do the entire run (or don?t have a 4×4 when it?s required) to visit the lower portion via the 2-way road and walk up the canyon. At least you can see one of the few narrow washes located in the Death Valley region. <\/p>\n We headed back to camp and as usual stopped by furnace creek to pick up some fuel, food and beer. <\/p>\n Hole In The Wall, and Trail Canyon OHV routes.<\/strong><\/p>\n After the long drive up to and through Titus Canyon the day before, we decided to check out something off West Side road, a drive we had taken the year before. The night before was one of our early to crash nights, so in the morning it was time to haul ass and hit the road. It was good to get an early start. The year before a gentleman had told us about the ?Hole In The Wall Trail???. Being its just south east of the Echo trailhead, it seemed like a spot to look over and quickly explore the area. Our goal was to check out Trail Canyon off West Side Road but the short drive to the ?Hole In The Wall Trail??? would only be a slight delay for what was planned for the day.<\/p>\n A drive through ?The Hole In The Wall???.<\/b><\/p>\n The trail goes east about 4 miles off highway 190 and begins as a level, loose gravel road and continues this way to the actual spot that the trail is named after.<\/p>\n This section of the road is similar to the start of Echo Canyon.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n Basically you?re driving up a wash. It would be interesting to see this during a heavy rain storm.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n I wasn?t real impressed with the scenery on the way in and surprised that the Hole In The Wall itself is not an actual hole, rather a fairly wide path that cuts through a mountain ridge.<\/p>\n The mountains are quite tall and somewhat colorful, but the area was a bit more bland compared to other places we had been. Maybe some flowers and greenery would help but that happened to be about 3 months off. <\/p>\n In my opinion, this is one big creepy looking mountain!<\/p>\n After passing through the ridge, this slightly bumpy road degrades a bit and becomes fairly rough with larger rocks to negotiate, but is still suitable for higher clearance stock two wheel drive pickups or SUV?s.<\/p>\n Leaving the trail can be a problem for vehicles without some sort of off road capabilities such as all wheel drive<\/i>, a lockable rear differential<\/i>, or full time 4WD<\/i>. The routes terrain is very similar on either side of the wall; both areas being a flat type wash with limited vegetation. <\/p>\n <\/p>\n At the end of the trail is a nice spot to camp and is a site I think I?ve seen in some older western movies. <\/p>\n There was a group using the site and one of the 2WD pickups got stuck. Luckily they had enough manpower to push back onto the trail. The map shows a path continuing but there were signs posted that we were at the end of the road and off roading was prohibited from that point on. <\/p>\n <\/p>\n We spun around and headed out toward West Side road. The view looking back at Hole In The Wall appeared more scenic probably due to the sun angle.<\/p>\n Before you pass back through the gap there is a fairly nice spot to boon dock. <\/p>\n It looked like the road once passed through here but in the picture you might be able to see a pedestal indicating it?s off limits. This spot would be a good base camp being the road to the highway is not too far away.<\/p>\n Back on asphalt we headed down to West Side road. I was shocked to see how much this road had changed in one year. The washboard was gone which was nice but the salt flats were far less impressive. The vivid white salt beds from last year were stained a brownish color. Several miles along West Side road, the sign showing Trail Canyon appeared.<\/p>\n The Trail Canyon off road route runs basically west in a slightly uphill grade off West Side Road for about 9 miles to where it dead ends. There was supposed to be some kind of mining camp at the end of the trail that we had hoped to see.<\/p>\n At this time of year the only scenery offered on this section of the road are views of the Panamint Range and the valley floor. <\/p>\n As so many places in Death Valley it takes a good rainy season between November and January with sporadic showers into February to make for a great flower bloom around March. This particular time of year was dry looking and didn?t offer much. Maybe another year.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n A couple of hikers in the middle of nowhere.<\/p>\n Other than some great views of the valley most of the trail was slightly disappointing but if you?re looking at it from a geological standpoint, this place is loaded with history from what I?ve read. There was one spot where the trail dropped into a wash that was a little off camber. Other than that, the trail was a flat steady uphill climb. <\/p>\n Then along the way this thing appeared.<\/p>\n Making a statement? <\/p>\n The trail looked well traveled in spots but other place it looked like nobody had been down it for a while.<\/p>\n Inside the canyon, more vegetation appeared. I?d like to see it in springtime. <\/p>\n It seemed the trail just came to an end or we missed something. There were no signs any buildings or a camp. <\/p>\n My guess is this little wash might pack a punch during rain. At one time there was a road to Augberry Point but it is now only a hiking trail. We spun around and headed back somewhat disappointed with the lack of scenery. One of these days I?d like to go back and find that camp.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n The picture above is one great spot to camp but was posted off limits. <\/p>\n Like the previous run we made, this trail is more scenic when dropping back into the main valley.<\/p>\n As I commented, springtime wild flowers could make all the difference but not at this time and we returned somewhat disappointed. <\/p>\n Artist Pallet one the other side of the Valley has been an elusive spot to date and was hoping to make it there before the sun set. From what I?ve seen, Artist Pallet is one of the most colorful spots in Death Valley. Again we never made it before dark and just headed back to camp.<\/p>\n The next day we planned to get breakfast at Furnace Creek and head toward Cottonwood Canyon. A sit down breakfast sure sounded good.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Cottonwood Canyon.<\/strong><\/p>\n In the morning we kept our plans to check out Cottonwood Canyon. Apparently there were ancient Indian writings on the rock walls in a section prior to the start of Cottonwood itself. This would be a long trip so we figured a breakfast stop was due. We headed to fill up my fuel tank and our bellies.<\/p>\n Even though the place was packed, breakfast was pretty good, reasonably priced and sitting down being served is always nice for a change. A different kind of vehicle was at Furnace Creek fueling up.<\/p>\n I complain about the mileage of my van, but that thing must really suck down the fuel. Something really cool reveled itself when the wife came out of the back. It was a full plush RV disguised as a military vehicle. Unfortunately I didn?t get a tour before they drove off.<\/p>\n Finally we were back on the road, our hunger satisfied, and eager to explore one of the areas slated as one of the better drives in the park. <\/p>\n Cottonwood Canyon trail starts just north of Stovepipe Wells on the road to the aircraft landing strip. <\/p>\n Although it?s primarily flat, the road is very sandy at times especially at the start. <\/p>\n Two wheel drive vehicles might get stuck if wind has blown in large amounts of sand over the road. This trail meanders a few miles through the loose gravel and sandy spots until it reaches a parking area. On this trip we found several two wheel drive vehicles at the tail head of the OHV route. The trail here begins to degrade and two wheel drive vehicles should not go any further but it?s an easy trail for any 4×4. High clearance 2WD vehicles with a limited slip differential, locker, or AWD should be OK on much of the route. The trail is marked as a Jeep trail or OHV route because it follows a wash. Again, I?m fairly sure this 4×4 trail (as most in D.V.) change from year to year depending on the wet weather.<\/p>\n During heavy rain this would be a shallow river. You can see where water has cut through the sand and gravel during heavy rains. Soon the wash narrows and the trail follows a more vertical rock wall type canyon.<\/p>\n This is where many of the Petroglyphs start. This short section of wash narrows down at this point, and here you see the 2000 year old Indian art work.<\/p>\n About Petroglyphs<\/a> <\/p>\n
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