<\/strong><\/p>\n By Dave Boyer<\/em><\/font><\/strong><\/p>\n 2012-2014<\/font><\/strong><\/p>\n In the lower US there are a handful of exceptional off road trails that stand out in the expedition world. The Mojave Trail located in the Southern California runs through a section of the 1.6 million acre Mojave National Preserve and is considered by some as a premium off road route. It also draws visitors from outside California including those from other countries who wish to ?overland??? portions of America. The trail is longer than average and although it crosses a few minor roadways, much of the landscape is remote in nature. Several sections remain as it was in the past?much of it like it has been for over a hundred of years. Because of the trails old west history, I?ve always wanted to run this route. <\/p>\n Also called the Old Government Road, most of what can be traveled today is based off an old Infantry supply route, but over the years some sections have been diverted from the original wagon trail. The total mileage is about 130+ miles long and can be done in 3 or 4 days. Just take into consideration that there are sections both on and off the trail that can be explored which might require extra time on your part. Although considered an off road trail, most any standard four wheel drive SUV should be able to navigate the majority of the terrain, weather permitting. It?s important to note that any 4×4 trail is subject to change. A brief heavy downpour of rain can make some trails impassable in a short period of time and it?s no different on this route. Besides the possibility of rain causing problems, blowing sand, extremely high temperatures and even snow can turn this mild trail into a difficult passage. It?s always best to call about the condition before attempting it. Be aware that there are portions of the trail that might require specialized equipment that doesn?t come stock with the average factory equipped SUV. Correct tires and recovery equipment along with the knowledge of how to use these items may be crucial in making it through some of the tougher sections. Most of the difficult parts of the trail can be bypassed but there are no warning telling you what?s ahead. Another issue can be cactus such as the Teddybear Cholla<\/a>. These little spiny plants can puncture the sidewall of your tire and ruin your trip. A good spare, a compressor, tire repair kit, and a can of flat repair is worth having on board. Basically the phrase is be prepared for desert travel<\/u>.<\/em><\/p>\n Amenities: <\/b><\/p>\n Because the route crosses several well maintained roads, getting off the trail for supplies is fairly easy. The best plan is to be fully loaded with spare fuel on hand to get you out of a jam if required. My biggest issue is usually running out of ice, propane or firewood, and lastly diesel. Starting from the east, Needles has everything required to prep for the run. After that Bullhead City, Searchlight and finally Baker on the western end can supply what you need if you run low on something. Palm Garden Chevron close to the start of the trail at 163 & 95 has diesel and a small food mart. The local towns require a 20+ mile trek depending on where you leave the trail. Baker lacks larger grocery stores and is just a pit stop along I-15 but they have fuel, food, ice and propane. A-1 All Night Services located in town at 72572 Baker Blvd not only has propane but also is a tire shop and tow service. (760) 733-4380. They will pull you out but I don?t know at what price or how far they will go. I generally make contact with the local services before I need them. It?s just an added bit of security. It?s possible there are other smaller stops that have fuel such as Primm N\/O the preserve and Fenner off 40 thirty seven miles W\/O Needles but the others mentioned have the major shops. Call ahead to make sure diesel is available at the smaller gas stations. <\/p>\n History:<\/b><\/p>\n Partially based off an ancient Indian trail, the original foot path wandered through a dry desert region that generally required water to survive the trek. For hundreds of years Indians knew the location of watering holes along the route which allowed them to travel from the Colorado River to the Pacific Ocean. According to historians, the original route was much longer than what?s left today, and some say it once reached from San Pedro California to Prescott Arizona. The path was also used by early American explorers, missionaries, pioneers, and immigrants between the 18th<\/sup> and 19th<\/sup> centuries. Father Francisco Garc?s who gave the Colorado River its name was probably the first non-native visitor to traverse the Mojave trail in 1776, but it wouldn?t be until 1826 when the first American explorer Jedidiah Smith traveled the route. During Smith?s expedition, he used two Mojave Indians as guides to reach Spanish Missions on the coast. After California was annexed as part of the United States, it was the US military that exploited the trail between 1848 and 1871 converting it into a well-used wagon trail. Fort Mojave was established southwest of Bullhead City Arizona along the Colorado River in 1859. In 1860 the army founded a second outpost titled Camp Cady which was put in service a few miles north-east of the present day community of Newberry Springs. The trail connected the two Army posts and was generally used by military personnel as a supply route. Indians not only resisted the intrusion of the army but also the settlers using the trail that passed through their homeland. It became necessary for soldiers to routinely patrol the route to help protect travelers against the tribes who molested the pioneers attempting to colonize the west. Several minor outposts were established between Fort Mojave and Camp Cady. Most of these smaller infantry camps were located where water was found which also provided a stopping point during a full days ride. One of these was Fort Piute. Still accessible today, it makes for one of the interesting stops along the trail. Of course everybody knows who finally won during the conquest of the west and over the years the Indians were held at bay under what some think of as questionable means. Moving into the 20th<\/sup> century the Army outposts were no longer needed and eventually abandoned but the trail remained. There are only a handful of original wagon trails in the United States that have been left as intact as the Mojave Trail is today. <\/p>\n <\/b><\/p>\n December 2012:<\/b><\/p>\n In late December of 2012, I talked my buddy Don in doing the Mojave Trail. We tried to get a few other buddies with vans to do the run but it?s kind of hard to get any kind of commitment between Christmas and the New Year holiday. So it would be a one vehicle trip and although it would have been nice to have company I was still eager to explore the region. I drove down to Merced to pick up my buddy Don and we were on our way. <\/p>\n Rather than starting from the traditional end at the Colorado River, the western section was chosen as the starting point. This was due to time restraints only. The plan was to drive the short distance through the Manix Wash into the Mojave Wash and on to Afton Canyon campground for the night.<\/p>\n This map gives you an idea where the trail starts in relationship to Barstow and Baker. Camp Cady was close by but wasn?t on the list to visit. Apparently there is some kind of plaque at the site and I?d like to check it out one of these days.<\/p>\n Directions to Camp Cady<\/a><\/p>\n Although the start of the Mojave Trail off highway 15 isn?t part of the original government path, the beginning of the route heading into the Manix wash was easy going.<\/p>\n There are a few trails that split off the main path at the starting point but the Manix\/Mojave route is well marked and follows a transmission line for a slight distance. (Click on map to enlarge) <\/p>\n The letter designation ?AC??? stands for Afton Canyon. About the only time you?ll see these markers are at a few sections where other trails intersect. <\/p>\n I wouldn?t say the terrain was ugly but an average rating<\/em> for scenery might fit.<\/p>\n The trail west of Afton Canyon has some of the finest grit sand I?ve ever encountered and the last thing I was wanting to do was to stop and get stuck just to snap a picture. I got this fuzzy shot on the run. You can see all the bike trails in the sand. The wash is wide in spots and with so many tracks running in all directions I didn?t know what side of the wash to drive on. I just picked what looked like the best track but some were dead ends for large vehicles. <\/p>\n I didn?t like traveling it by myself, and burying my van was on my mind while running through both washes. Mud terrain tires are not the best choice and after we hit heavy sand I found out my front locker was out. The sand was so deep that I was leery of even stopping to air down. The mantra was ?go, go, go???. Because flash floods move through the wash during heavy rains, the trail changes radically during the wet season. But this year was very dry and the rangers claimed this caused the sand to be deeper than normal and unusually fine. Heavy off road traffic didn?t help either. Having to stop and look for the correct path was a bit nerve racking but we did the run without ever sinking my rig. This is not the place for the newbie off roader with a stock 4×4. Correct tires and the recovery equipment discussed earlier should be considered standard on board gear while running this portion of the trail. <\/p>\n I was somewhat relieved to finally make it to the railroad signal lines where the trail greatly improved but what lay ahead was still a mystery. As the sun set I was looking forward to the end of the trail. Generally I enjoy running at night but with trails running all over the place I didn?t want to veer off the main route. Finally we reached Afton Canyon. <\/p>\n I was surprised to see water in the Mojave River.<\/p>\n One thing that freaked me out were the low lines. I noticed that there was a two wire circuit on the top arm configured as a high voltage line and my antenna was very close to contact. Although nothing touched, next time I?ll tie back the antenna. <\/p>\n Soon we reached the underpass and knew the campground was right around the corner.<\/p>\n Afton Canyon campground looked awful from what we could see in the dark but it did in a pinch. I was just happy to relax on hard ground. <\/p>\n We kicked back, had a smoke, a few drinks, and made some dinner. The big discussion was about whether we should head to the opposite end of the trail and start from the Colorado River or continue from Afton CG. Feeling exhausted we crashed fairly early. After lights out, the sound of a train rumbling by woke me up. For what ever reason I thought it was cool. The engine never let off a blast of its horn as it slowly snaked its way by the camp making an eerie creaking sound. I wished I would have taken a picture but it would of required a tripod and all I wanted was to grab some more Z?s. Looking outside just before sunrise I saw the plans we had discussed were going to be trashed. During the early morning the rains had came in. Great, what would be next? <\/p>\n The rising sun shed light on what we had driven into the night before. We grabbed some coffee and grub while talking about what effect the rains would have, then had a look around camp.<\/p>\n Not the most scenic spot I?ve ever been in. At least there wasn?t anybody around during our visit.<\/p>\n I wasn?t too thrilled about finishing the trail not knowing its condition after the rain. Being Don stays in a tent it didn?t help things either and the weather forecast showed more storms approaching. Sure, a little water helps driving in sand but we both knew about the Soda Lake. Terrain like that can become slippery and clogs your tires. I would have had a different view if I was traveling with other vehicles. My goal was to do the complete trail, not sections of it. Disappointed, the trip was re-evaluated. <\/p>\n <\/p>\n The world was supposed to end in December of 2012 but all that ended for us was finishing the Mojave Trail. We would have to wait until the next year and hope for a good weather window.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n Fast forward to December 2013:<\/b><\/p>\n I always try to grab as much time off from work during the holidays. In the past I?ve set up trips during the New Year which is my favorite time to visit the desert. We had an unusually dry winter in California especially down south. Timing couldn?t have been better for finishing the Mojave Trail. Don cleared the trip with his wife and we planned for the second attempt at finishing the 130 mile off road trek.<\/p>\n I hit Merced about 10 AM and picked up Don. With Don?s wife standing at the front door waving goodbye and tears flowing, we drove off down the? Umm?it didn?t actually go that way! She probably wondered if my Ford 6.0 was going to break down again. She claimed every time we go something breaks and to tell the truth that was in the back of my mind as well. We headed out of central California bound for Needles and the beginning of the Mojave Trail. Because of a late start, Needles was out of the loop so we decided to grab a campsite outside of Barstow along Mule Canyon Road close to the Calico Ghost Town. This place is a dirt biker?s paradise which was definitely apparent upon arrival. The place was packed and although we found a private spot, it was next to the road that was active most of the night. The dust was more of an issue and after numerous vehicles passed by over the hours I came to the conclusion that Afton Canyon campground might have been a better choice. One idiot started doing donuts at the entrance of our camp during the evening. Jerk! <\/p>\n In the morning I was surprised to see how trashed out this place was. The Mule Train road itself was quite scenic but I doubt I?ll ever come back here to camp.<\/p>\n Being it was fairly early, a drive up the canyon was worth pursuing. Was it possible that one unique camp could be found just around the corner? Nope, just more campers, trailers and huge toy haulers occupying any spot available. <\/p>\n The trail looped back close to the starting point but pushed for time it was faster to turn around and returned the way we came in. Several vehicles were coming in for the New Year holiday and I can say I was happy to leave this area. <\/p>\n Barstow was next on the list for some morning breakfast and diesel. I was surprised that a town of this size didn?t provide a good restaurant but maybe that hole in the wall greasy spoon was just hiding from us. <\/p>\n <\/p>\n This place was bad; worse than Denny?s even though that might be hard to believe. <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n After leaving Barstow, Highway 40 took us to the trail?s starting point. I noticed that along side of the highway, the old Route 66 path paralleled 40. It would have been great to have the time to drive the old highway but the day was short. My vehicle map showed the Bagdad Caf? which triggered a memory from the past but I couldn?t put my finger on it?perhaps a place Huell Howser visited once. A quick visit to Bing revealed a movie was made there in the past but I didn?t recall ever seeing it. <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n I?ll admit the Highway 40 drive was a bit tedious and seemed like it took forever. <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n I guess I was experiencing that ?are we there yet<\/em>??? feeling. Finally Needles was within out grasp. After fueling up and grabbing some junk food it was time to head toward the Colorado River and the start of the Mojave Trail. <\/p>\n Along the way, farmland dotted the land providing scenery which was slightly pleasant to the eye. <\/p>\n Finding the start of the trail was somewhat more challenging that I thought it would be.<\/p>\n We found numerous roads that led to the river. There was also a newly built Indian gaming casino close by where the original trail started that wasn?t on the map. <\/p>\n We finally figured it out and even though it might be trespassing to get to the river, I turned into a field toward the bank of the Colorado to pick up our rock. <\/p>\n (Don?s chunk of the Colorado)<\/p>\n Some may ask ?Rock???? The tradition is to take a rock from the riverbank and take it to the Travelers Monument. Along the trail somewhere there was supposed to be a stopping point where visitors drop off their Colorado River rocks. Around this pile of stones was some kind of a plaque inscribed with something written that only the traveler can read and keep as their own secret not to be divulged to the public. Hopefully we would make it to that point.<\/p>\n The trail led to the hills in the background seen in the picture above. The Indian Tribe has changed the surrounding desert into farmland and although you might be able to run the section through the fields and to highway 95, I opted to bypass that section. <\/p>\n Again I must advise to purchase a good trail book to help navigate the route. I was equipped with topo maps that had the trail marked off, plus real time GPS maps which were extremely helpful. I?ve been told the Mojave Road Guide by Dennis Casebier is well worth the money. I do wish I had the book because it has information on treks off the main trail and some good history. <\/p>\n The turn off highway 95 was difficult to find but eventually the maps synced up. As the trail headed into the backcountry it was a good feeling to finally get going. Our goal was to make camp at Piute Springs and Fort Piute before dark. It was late but the fort was only about 23 miles away.<\/p>\n Some regions were slightly steep but didn?t require four wheel drive.<\/p>\n In the sandy sections there were only a few spots that were deep but still nothing that pushed me outside to lock the hubs. It was becoming more scenic for a desert setting. <\/p>\n Spiny cactus kept my radar up. I didn?t want to drive into one at all.<\/p>\n These things are mean and I wouldn?t want to tangle with any of em.<\/p>\n The trail was quite diversified, changing from a mountainous terrain to a flat sandy plateau. Not far up the trail the route would again cross over another set of hills. <\/p>\n (Looking back towards the Colorado River basin)<\/p>\n Soon the trail crossed over some of the steeper sections of the route.<\/p>\n At least the ground was solid and the trail wasn?t too rough.<\/p>\n The sun was setting and camp was a ways off. It looked like another night run.<\/p>\n This was possibly some kind of border crossing and maybe where the Preserve boundary started. <\/p>\n Time for some LED action.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n The trail was pretty smooth until we reached the power line road. The spur to Fort Piute was very rough and slow going.<\/p>\n I don?t know if you?re supposed to camp at Fort Piute but we set up at the parking lot anyway. It had been a long day and with the wind blowing and cold temperatures, party time was going to be inside the van. With the late lunch still satisfying, alcohol was more on our minds.The first 23 miles of trail had gone well. It was a great night and it went quick but the drinking finally took its toll. Every time I woke during the night I wondered what the Fort looked like and was anxious for morning light. <\/p>\n I woke before the sun was up just to grab a few photos.<\/p>\n (23 miles from the Colorado)<\/p>\n Like I?ve said, it?s always interesting to see what you drove into during the night. <\/p>\n Besides the water located here, it was obvious that this was a good spot for a small Army outpost. The views were spectacular. <\/p>\n After coffee, we explored what was left of the old Army fort.<\/p>\n This was the main building on the site. The plaque showed the structures layout.<\/p>\n The main section of the outpost is not much to look at and somewhat hidden by the brush in this picture but just thinking about the soldiers who manned this ?Redoubt??? really makes you wonder what it looked like during its hay day.<\/p>\n The main section of the corral is not visible but the section still standing in the picture above is shown in the lower portion of the Google image below. <\/p>\n Strange how the Google image makes the area look clear of brush.<\/p>\n Water was flowing in the creek but thick brush restricted the view.<\/p>\n We met a couple running the route.<\/p>\n Figuring they would probably out run me, we let them leave out in front of us. It was time to pack up and hit the trail.<\/p>\n Off camber and rough, the 2 mile spur up to the fort seemed to take longer than the night before.<\/p>\n Spiny beauty in the desert.<\/p>\n This was a site that was once a homestead and turkey farm located below the Fort along Piute Creek.<\/p>\n The original trail that once ran through and beyond Fort Piute has been re-routed down along Cable Road. The bypass trail runs south along the power lines for just a slight distance then splits off back west over the Piute Range which climbs quickly from 2450? to 3400? and continues a slower steady rise through Lanfair Valley.<\/p>\n (Colorful desert setting)<\/p>\n The trail started the climb at this point and although the picture below doesn?t show how steep it was, I had problems here.<\/p>\n I drove into a rut and got stuck. Attempting to back up, I ran the rear differential into a rock. We pulled the van out of the hole using the winch then stacked rocks in the rut so I could clear the bolder I hit. After the rear end was clear I could take a better stab at the trail. <\/p>\n Well the terrain got steeper and the trail became rocky and loose. The next few minutes was nothing but a struggle. I made several attempts in a couple of spots that had me scratching my head. Finally it occurred to me I might have screwed up. <\/p>\n Don was spotting and on my third shot I drove up the last section like it was nothing. Don yelled ?man you just crawled up without spinning a tire, what did you do<\/em>????<\/p>\n As I drove past him I said ?I engaged the rear axle<\/em>???. The whole time I was in front wheel drive only. Great! It sure didn?t do much for my front tires.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Off the grade, the trail flattened out as it entered the Lanfair Valley.<\/p>\n The path was smooth and the the ground was firm considering how sandy it looked.<\/p>\n (Typical terrain at +\/- mile 34)<\/p>\n The Mojave Trail meandered in and out of gullies and washes but was mainly a nice lightly steady climb through Lanfair Valley. The trail climbs about 800 feet until it reaches Ivanpah road several miles away.<\/p>\n About half was between the Piute Range and the upcoming Ivanpah Road we found this old site. Lots of bullet holes none of which would end up being mine.<\/p>\n The road narrowed and became almost canal like.<\/p>\n One thing I kind of worried about were cactus so close to the edge.<\/p>\n There just wasn?t a lot of room for a large vehicle. My tires rode partially on their sidewalls in spots.<\/p>\n Some of the spots were way off camber. The trail soon leveled out again as we approached another Mojave Road landmark. <\/p>\n The Mojave Trail?s Penny Can Tree. <\/p>\n The word is that dropping a penny in one of the cans gives you luck while driving the trail. I wasn?t about to pass a lucky charm up. <\/p>\n The trail would soon cross one of the major thoroughfares. Ivanpah Road is a route off the Mojave Trail to leave out for supplies but it?s a long haul to the nearest store. <\/p>\n At intersection we found this plaque. The Ivanpah intersection is at about mile 47.<\/p>\n There were some areas down Ivanpah Road that looked like possible boon dock spots but one quick look sent us scurrying back to the trail. There was nothing to lure us off the Old Government Road.<\/p>\n The Mojave Trail was smooth here and you can speed through this section with a narrow vehicle but the Joshua and Yucca trees forced me to tuck in my mirrors at spots and pull back the reins. The Joshua Tree Forest sure slowed me down.<\/p>\n Would we ever find a camp? It was getting late.<\/p>\n I?ll have to admit, some of the sunsets like this one were unreal. <\/p>\n Absolutely beautiful but I would have been happier sitting in camp with beer in one hand and a fine cigar in the other watching the sun set.<\/p>\n It looked like another night run. Don was getting tired of setting up his tent in the dark but our destination was still a few miles away. There was supposed to be another campground or a nice camp up Caruthers Canyon. As we turned off the Mojave Trail I noticed something in the dark. A quick run up a spur took us to a stone cabin. It was the perfect spot. After camp was set up, it was party time. New Years Eve was upon us and it gave us an excuse to drink. <\/p>\n Shrimp skewers were on the menu along with other odds and ends. As an old man I rarely make it to midnight during the New Year Holiday anymore. Usually the alcohol shoots me down way before the hoopin and hollerin starts but by god I made this time. One thing I?ll never forget was the rum Don brought. Some dumbass kid at Costco claimed it was the best rum he?d ever had. That crap was rotgut. Now I?m not one to pour out booze BUT! Don said don?t do it, that?ll kill the snakes. Finally I could endure no more of that stuff and switched. But the music was good and It was probably the best night of the trip so far.<\/p>\n The morning came. OMG! Definitely the worse morning of the trip so far. <\/p>\n It took a lot of espresso to jump start our brains. The cabin was cool and looked like had been lived in at some point of time during my life. <\/p>\n At one time it was private property but many of those areas have been absorbed by the Park Service. <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n We finally broke camp and headed on our way. The couple we saw at Fort Piute came out of Caruthers so it was probably good we camped where we did. The music got a little loud while the New Years party was going on.<\/p>\n I was told this area has one of the largest stands of Joshua Trees around.<\/p>\n Again the trail got narrow and cactus reached out trying to grab at my tires. <\/p>\n The canals were back.<\/p>\n We didn?t know it but there was a road a stones throw away that paralleled the Mojave Road. Funny cause we felt like miles from civilization. <\/p>\n I found this the strangest part of the trail. It made me feel like I was higher up in the air than normal.<\/p>\n Even though this was a little rough, what was up ahead was worse. The trail ends up on Cedar Canyon Road and then cuts off and down into Watson Wash.<\/p>\n This doesn?t look bad but you?d have to be there. Skeptical, I decided to bypass this section. If I hadn?t been running the trail alone it would have been another situation.<\/p>\n From up top it was difficult to determine how narrow or deep the ruts were and short sections of the path were vertical in nature. This was by far the most extreme portion of the trail up to this point. Viewing it from the bottom gave a better perspective.<\/p>\n Watson Wash was the most sandy section to this point. The trail led to Rock Spring just up the trail seen in the background.<\/p>\n Rock Spring (mile 49) was another spot along the original Mojave path that was used by travelers that supplied water to those crossing the desert. The military had set up a small camp at this location but being the area has scattered petroglyphs it?s obvious it was also an ancient watering hole for tribal people and nomads of the region.<\/p>\n As shown on the map, proceeding back up to the main road (Cedar Canyon) and west led to Bert Smith?s rock house built in 1929.<\/p>\n According to the sites plaque, Bert had his lungs damaged in world war I and needed to find a dry climate in able to survive. <\/p>\n (Bert with his buddies)<\/p>\n Even though he was not expected to live long, the desert setting allowed him to survive another 25 years. <\/p>\n The Rock House was one of the only spots along the trail that had a bathroom. <\/p>\n Back off the Cedar Canyon Road we were back on the Old Government Trail.<\/p>\n Some unique rock formations and other oddities along the way toward the next main stop called Government Holes.<\/p>\n (+\/- mile 52)<\/p>\n Looking at this set of rock formations screamed out ambush point and I wondered if it had ever been used as such.<\/p>\n Government Holes is marked by its classic windmill and water tank.<\/p>\n Used primarily as a cattle watering hole by outfits such as the Ox cattle company, the US army also used it for their needs. It was also the site of a gunfight in 1925 so there is plenty of history here.<\/p>\n There was quite a large corral located behind the cattle trough.<\/p>\n The trail quickly led back to the main vehicle route (Cedar Canyon Road) which crests out at 5000?. It?s the highest point along the Mojave Road.<\/p>\n The Cedar Canyon road was well graded which made it easy to quickly cover a large distance. Several miles were traveled in minutes on the road as compared to hours on the trail. A left spur off the Cedar Canyon road led to Black Canyon. It looked like there would have been plenty to explore if time allowed but the plan was to stick to the Mojave Trail. Looking at the map showed a several campgrounds, a recreation area and a spot to take a cave tour. The road continued on to Essex road and highway 40 but that would have to be left for another day. <\/p>\n We soon reached the Kelso-Cima road at mile 62. The railroad tracks looked used and the road paved. <\/p>\n A historical plaque about the Mojave Trail is along the paved road. After crossing the road the trail continued on its way through what looked like a large valley.<\/p>\n The trail became slightly sandy again but still didn?t require four wheel drive.<\/p>\n
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